Thank you to Dr Tighe for alerting me to this. It seems that Chartres Cathedral, a miracle of Gothic architecture, is at the mercy of philistine restorationists. It reminds me of what the French revolutionaries did to Notre Dame; not in the least bit "enlightened." My family and I visited Chartres in 2001 and my memories of the great cathedral are nothing like the images you will see if you follow the link. Then it was all dark and "atmospheric," not dingy and unpleasant.
I had planned on going to France next year for Agincourt Day and, if time and money allowed, making a long journey south just to see the cathedral. I wonder now whether I'd have the heart to do so.
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